Nog can then be fixed for soffit fixing, all eves require nogs fixed between trusses on it flat or edge depend on the position of the house as long as it will not be in the way of fixing fascia board. Fix nog around face of the trusses vertically for fixing of weatherboard

C nail can also be connected on top plate and studs/jack stud with routing then nail flash against the walls

 Roof plan bracing will need to be fixed before nailing all purlin off, steel brace strap running 45 degree at end of roof plan under purlin is to be tension and nailed on tuess and top plate.

Wire dogs/Z nail is to connect purlin and truss together, bottom two and top two purlins are to be fix with 2 wire dog one each side of truss, all other area are to be fix with one in stagger pattern. There also require a wire dog at every cut end of purlin to enforce the hold down

70 x45mm purlin is to be fixed at 500mm spacing for the bottom two from eve and top two from ridge, the rest will be spaced equally. Nail off purlin when all roof trusses are level and equally spaced. Purline is to be cut and joint on truss and stagger pattern, 2 nails on all purlin to truss and 4 nails at joints of 2purlins

Truss setting on top plate can also be fixed off with two CT 200 Ceiling Tie on each side of the truss, all holes are to be nail for the strength of the tie

Dragon Tie can be installed before purlin are fixed, a piece of 100 x 50mm timber fixed 45 degree on top plate to top plate at external walls and no more than 2.5m away from the corner

 Two sloping verge of the house can be constructed either by outrigger & fly rafter or pre-nailed boxing. Outrigger is to overhang on verge of truss by 405mm and fix with fly rafter of 45mm at the end, a piece of diagonal outrigger is set approximate 45 degree setting on top of end truss and fixed onto fly rafter and outrigger. With boxing verge, it is to be constructed with nog and fly rafter on ground, then fixed onto the end truss. Attention require on straightening on face of fly rafter and bottom edge as for the flasher going to be fixed on

 Fix ceiling runner and space brace between the ceiling spaces, ceiling runner is to be running continuous and fix onto vertical nog of the trusses, space brace is to be fix approximate 45 degree on two end and centre of the roof space fixing onto either vertical member of trusses or nogs fixed on trusses

 crane onto top of wall framing in position of how they going to be fix. Nail a piece of timber on these trusses and braced onto the timber flooring to prevent falling off. Tags nail a piece of timer over top of all trusses to hold time together and un-tag each truss when fixing. Mark out position of each individual trusses on top plate at both side of the building, each truss are spaced at 890mm center to center. Mark out position of perlins before the truss pack is open up or the conveniences when fixing in future

Starting fixing trusses from both end of the roof and brace up with timbers on to the timber floor, level end trusses and tag nail pieces of timber on face wall framing. set string line on the ridge on both trusses (the end with a lower truss design for fixing outrigger has to set form the second one in which is same to all other trusses), use dogger block and pack under string line on both end then use it as a mark for setting other roof trusses

set up scaffold for erecting roof trusses and cladding

router for wind tie/bracing strip on the exterior face of the wall, it will then give a flash face for fixing exterior cladding.


on the barce wall BL1, 2 bracing strip required on each side of every opening, extra nog will be added for the strip.

 Nail full length of 140x35 double top plate on the exterior walls with 2/100mm galvanised nail and skewed. then nail 75x35 ceiling batten on the side and double plate and passing over the interior walls. in between the ceiling batten on top of the interior walls nail bolcks of double plate for hanging the interior ceiling lining, block must protrude on bothside of top plate for lining fixing.

Ceiling batten will later be nail onto the trusseswith 2/75mm nails

square wall framing by checking the room dimension for bedroom, bathroom and toilet, measure according to site plan from all 4 corners and adjust internal framing to suit the dimension on plan. use the 345 method to measure by setting string line on the corner then adjust to fit until angle is right. Once dimension and corner are accurate at 4 corner of the room, then straighten the wall with a straight edge or string line and dodger block and fix bottom plate permanently with 2 nails between every stud.

 Bathrooms require to be square off most accurately due to fixing of shower box and bathtub later on, when squaring off corner of the walls use a 90 degree square and adjust walls to fit the metal square

set string line on profile at the BL lines and square off 4 corners of the building at exterior. Adjust the exterior wall framing to line with BL string and nail off at two corners first, then use dodger block and adjust wall framing with along BL and permanently nail off at bottom plate with 2 nails between every stud

level the exterior frames by putting a straight edge and spirit level at corner of the exterior wall, take off the bracing holding the wall in lateral movement then push the framing until it is leveled and nail the bracing back into place

erect all exterior wall and square and straighten then permanent fix bottom down with 2 bright nails at average of 400-600mm spacing.

erect interior wall but tag nails foor further leveling and squaring later

Pre-nail framing deliver to site with number labeled by manufacturer supplied with a manufacturer plan

Always check on site plane making sure the wall framing are in right direction for door/window/walldrob opening, framing will also be labeled with junction of wall to wall, treatment on bottom/top plate can also indicate is the framing right way up

square off off the edge of the building to start with, marking out BL from profile, then straighten the exterior walls with string line and doger bolcks

fix a timber bracing from top of stud framing nailing onto a block on flooring at 45 degree angle, this is to support the framing itself from falling down

A piece of timber bracing also be fix parallel to the framing to prevent lateral movement before permanently fixing, the bracing is nailed from top to bottom plate at a angel approximate 45 degree

Start erecting wall framing form one end of the building to the other, doing that, we need to pull out the framing in order which going to be stand first then put others aside. Start standing framing from the exterior walls and line them with building lines, tag the nails at bottom plate as walls may need to be adjust in future

Using string line and mark out edge of one floorboard squared then fix, joint of the floorboard should be staggered and fixing using specify galvanized flooring nail skewed spacing 150mm edge of board and 200mm middle of board. Apply Hold Fast Gorilla Grip to all edge of floorboard and 300mm cut holes on foil insulation.

Fix particleboard flooring then measure and cut plywood for wet areas, all joint of plywood must be setting on joist, extra nogs need to be fitted if there aren’t any inplace for nailing. Fixing to plywood flooring are the same to particleboard flooring. Be sure the push the boards tight as possible with glue squeeze out the joints and edge of the boards are flush.

Lay foil floor insulation on top of the joists with 75-100mm sag and cut holes on top of joist 300mm apart for adhesive connection to floor board. Sag should not excess any noggin to expose moisture into the flooring.

Forms opening for service pipes and bathroom and toilet area as to plan with trimmer joist fix to trimming joist and curtailed joist against it, connections are to be joint by joist hanger or connectors.

Plan off and level any un-level joints on top of the joist and ready for flooring.

on boundar marking out SJ (sheet Joint) for flooring according to lenght of the sheet manufactured, joist on the point will need to be fix centre to the joint of both sheets allowing enough space for fixing, by using string line to straighten the joist. Nogging between joist are fixed after the joist has been accurated located

fixing a piece of timber on the joints of the joist to connect them togehter, on therside nail in a galvanized nail plate to reniforec the joint as well. this is will stop joint to open up when lifting the house.

using combination square to level joist when fixing onto boundary joist, set the joist as straight as possible

Boundary joists all connect with 45 degree cut and fix the joints on end of a joist, part of the building are formed with cantilevered joists.

H3.2 boundary joist cut at 45 degree angle at joints and fix 3 galvanized nails to end of each individual joists

Joist is to be sit camber up and plan to level later

Marking out location of wet area for H3.2 joist and H1.2 for the rest, spacing of joist is to 400mm centre. Make temporary fixing to joist by putting one galvanized nail on each end as it may have to be moved later on

Laminate double joist at both end of the building, joist can be laminated with H3.2 on the outside and H1.2 inside

Run string line on BL from profile and fix double joist according to the BL, then set all centre joist in place using 20mm batten aligning method, run the string at end of boundary joist over 20mm block then fix joist according to string line

Brace the bearers one row to the other from the jack piles to soleplate, check the measurement of bearer spacing and make adjustment to bearer if necessary.

Cut two end piece of jack studs to height and brace fix on to the soleplate

Use the same method again with 200mm batten and run a string line over on top of the jack studs marking out level of all other jack studs then cut and fix align to string line

laminate barer 2 galvanize flat head 100mm nails skewed at spacing of 60mm from each end of different piece of timber and then 150mm centre onward

Setting the jack stud by marking where the rows of bearers are going to be by string line close to ground. Set the soleplate next to the string line and concrete nail.

Cut 3 20mm blocks from a timber batten and place one block on each end on soleplate with string line going over it. Use the third block to align the sloe plate with string line then nail from on end to the other.

Two other profile was set up by other group on both side of the building, use to mark out the differences of the building corners

String line was then transfer from ground onto batter board, using 345 method to estabilsh BL.

Another batter board was set up 400mm bellow the FFL which marks out the top of jack stud.

Start on building Unitce house today, one group mark a corner each. We try to mark our point from point other group established but find out if they are wrong we will also be wrong.

Once building corner is marked, we set up profile 900mm away from the corner and establish FFL by taking it from the group with highest ground  level. We also learn that people often move dumpy out of level, so always check bubble before using. Once leveling the dumpy back, have to reestablish a new marking and start again.

line from 4 corners marking-out BL, this is the hardest part of profiling as the lines has to be in right angle, using 345 method we did have to play around with the lines a bit moving it left or right on the batter board to get it right.

A better I thing is to make one corner in right angle first then do the other 3 after, once a line is moved always have to come back and check all other lines again.

marking out 4 corner with pags then using dumpy to establish the highest corner. Build profile with pags, bracing and batter board. Mark FFL then transfer to other 3 corners using dumpy, must make sure all level are the same or with different no more than 2mm.

Started on profiling practice today, learn how to use dumpy level to mark out FFL (finishing flooring level) and BL (building line)